2007 guest speakers
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Dan Mazur & Andrew Brash“Debacle on Everest and the Rescue of Lincoln Hall”Dan Mazur is a high-altitude Himalayan mountaineer who has climbed seven 8,000-meter peaks and works as an expedition organizer and leader for the company “SummitClimb” which has been organizing guided expeditions on the highest peaks for over 16 years. Dan, together with Andrew Brash of Calgary, Myles Osborne of Warsash England, and Jangbu Sherpa recently made worldwide headlines for his discovery and assistance in the rescue of Lincoln Hall, an Australian climber on Mt Everest on 25 May 2006. Lincoln Hall had been 'left for dead' the previous day at around 8700m on Everest after collapsing and failing to respond to treatment on the descent from the summit. Mazur and his fellow climbers abandoned their own summit attempt in order to assist Hall in an unprecedented mountain rescue involving Mazur’s team and additional 12 Sherpas. His actions, and those of his team, epitomized the noblest traditions of mountaineering just days after another climber (David Sharp, UK) had been abandoned and died high on Everest and ignored by 40 climbers on their way to the summit.
Daniel Mazur was born in the US, near Chicago, in October 1960. Originally a building designer by trade, later a diesel mechanic, then a student and social worker, he has now made the high mountain regions of the Himalaya his second home. Having reached the summit of Mount Everest from the south in 1991 with Anatoli Boukreev, he has subsequently climbed six more of the worlds 8000m peaks including K2, Lhotse, Makalu and Shishapangma. Dan is a Fellow of the Royal Geographical Society and spends much of his time guiding, lecturing and raising funds for the Mount Everest Foundation for Sustainable Development in Nepal and Tibet, as well as building hospitals, schools, and organizing environmental projects with the low-income farm families who live in the Mt. Everest region, away from touristic areas. Andrew Brash is a Calgary teacher and climber who has been on over 10 major climbing expeditions in many of the most impressive mountain environments in the world, including Tibet, China, Pakistan, Kazakhstan, Alaska, Chile and Nepal. He has been chasing his climbing dreams for over 20 years. In the spring of 2006 Andrew had the opportunity to attempt Mt. Everest, a goal he had first set for himself when he began climbing over twenty years ago. Two hundred metres below the top, Andrew and his fellow climbers discovered Lincoln Hall, a man who had been presumed dead. Assisting Lincoln to recover, and to organize his rescue, meant giving up the summit, and a lifelong dream.
At VIMFF Dan Mazur and Andrew Brash will detail the events leading up to the May 2006 rescue on Mt Everest and the debacle that took place high up in the Death Zone above 8,000 meters on the highest mountain on Earth. Dan and Andrew will speak about the ethics of high altitude mountain climbing, his previous ascents of the highest Himalayan peaks, as well as about his community activities in Nepal. Part of the show proceeds will go towards the Mount Everest Foundation. Also on the same “VIMFF Opening Evening, presented by MEC”: VIMFF Photo Competition Exhibition Opening and Awards Ceremony; screening of other selected VIMFF films. Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway) -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Show+Ticket Info
Tickets available on-line at www.vimff.org, at MEC, or at the door.
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Beth Rodden & Tommy Caldwell“ The Nose and El Capitan ”Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell are two of the most accomplished all round rock climbers in the world. As husband and wife, they make their new home in Yosemite Valley, however, they spend the majority of their time touring the globe, and seeking out new and exciting climbing adventures. Beth started climbing at the age of 14. She was obsessed after her dad took her to Rocknasium, the local climbing gym in Davis, CA. After being a gym junkie, she became addicted to outdoor climbing, ticking many hard ascents. In 2000, she began climbing with Tommy, and freed Lurking Fear (5.13c) on El Cap. Since then she has focused on climbing in the mountains and has many first female ascents of hard trad routes, including onsighting the Phoenix (5.13a), Grand Illusion (5.13c) and Country Boy (5.13d). She recently established the Optimist, 5.14b, at Smith Rock, her third 5.14, and the hardest route an American woman has climbed. Beth is the only woman after Lynn Hill to have free climbed the Nose on El Capitan, and the only woman to free climb 3 major routes on El Cap. She hopes to continue climbing and traveling the world with Tommy as long as possible. Tommy is a climber through and through. He started climbing at age three and has been passionate about the sport ever since. He has established numerous 5.14’s and a 5.15 sport climbs, has bouldered V13 and freed six routes on El Capitan (the most of anyone), four of which were first ascents and one of which is likely the hardest long free climb in the world. He has climbed on five continents and been on expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Bolivia and Canada. In October 2006 Tommy made the headlines by freeclimbing two highest bigwalls in less than 24 hours – The Nose on El Capitan and the Half Dome (with Hans Florine). Many magazines have called him one of the best all around climbers in the world. Tommy is also a contributing editor to Rock and Ice Magazine and has written feature length articles for Climbing and Alpinist Magazine. Says Lynn Hill about the free ascent of the Nose by Beth & Tommy: “First of all, Tommy and Beth had the right state of mind, ability and desire to make it happen! I’ve heard many times, “Lynn could do the great roof because she has small fingers.” Tommy is missing the tip of his index finger on one hand and even though it would have been easier with all of his finger tips, clearly he was able to find a way to make it work. He proved my point that one’s attitude and spirit is more important than one’s physical make-up. The point of climbing is to adapt to the natural features of the rock and Tommy and Beth found a way to do it rather than letting physical limitations distract them. They both love to climb, have tons of experience climbing on all types of rock, and it makes me happy to hear that they succeeded as a team! They are an inpiration as climbers and as a supportive couple in their daily lives!” [Lynn Hill] Tommy & Beth’s VIMFF multi-media presentation with slides, film clips and music will basically focus on their joint free ascent of the Nose in October 2005; on Tommy’s fastest free ascent of the Nose a couple days later; and on Tommy’s dual one day ascent of the Nose and the Half Dome. Also on the same “VIMFF Climbing Evening”: screening of other selected VIMFF climbing films. Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway) -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Show+Ticket Info Tickets available on-line at www.vimff.org, at MEC, or at the door. |
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Kelly Cordes“Trying, Failing, and Sometimes Succeeding”After learning to climb during graduate school in Montana, Kelly Cordes found himself hopelessly addicted to climbing, and soon all notions of a “normal” lifestyle disintegrated. His initial excitement, blended with an approach that served him well in prior athletic endeavors—that mental toughness and fitness could overcome deficits in talent—quickly made him an unsustainable case study in recklessness. He eventually added a modicum of skill and hard-earned judgment to his determination and, combined with an adventuresome mentality, he embraced progressively bigger alpine objectives and their humbling mix of challenges.
Along with countless failures, he has established difficult new mixed routes in superlight style in Alaska and Peru, as well as perhaps the world’s biggest rock climb: his and Josh Wharton’s 2004 first ascent of Great Trango Tower’s immense southwest ridge. The oft-attempted but previously unclimbed route in the Pakistani Karakoram rises 7,400 vertical feet from base to summit. Climbing in an extremely lightweight and committing style, the pair made the ascent over four and a half days (the last two without water), managing dangerous and difficult climbing along with severe dehydration, dwindling supplies, an incoming storm and all of the other standard epic elements. Following a year off—the result of Cordes’ longtime fractured spine requiring major reconstructive surgery—he and Wharton returned to Pakistan last summer to throw themselves at another “last great problem” of alpine rock, the north ridge of Shingu Charpa. In reaching a sub-summit after 45 pitches, Cordes considers their near miss to be both his latest “excellent failure” (as of this writing, anyway) and yet another tremendous experience filled with spectacular places and incredible people.
Cordes is most often found enjoying sunny cragging and bouldering near his home in Estes Park, Colorado, where he works as a freelance writer and senior editor of the American Alpine Journal. Although he insists he doesn’t enjoy being cold, scared, and hungry, he continues chasing alpine climbing’s Type II (fun only in retrospect) and Type III fun (not fun at all) in mountains around the world. His VIMFF show highlights his development as a climber and his most memorable outings. Latest news: Cordes and Colin Haley, from Seattle, traveled to Patagonia on a whim but with high hopes. In early January, the pair made the long-awaited first linkup of the incomplete Marsigny-Parkin route to the West Face, continuing to the summit of Cerro Torre. They raced up the committing, 1400-vertical-meter line in 32 hours base-to-summit, returning to their camp after a nerve-wracking and exhausting 48 hours. Kelly will include stories and images from this trip to his VIMFF show. Also on the same “VIMFF Alpine Climbing Evening, presented by Grivel North America”: screening of other selected VIMFF climbing films. Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway) -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Show+Ticket Info Tickets available on-line at www.vimff.org, at MEC, or at the door. |
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John Dunn“Journeys on the Wild Side – exploring the world’s largest uninhabited island”John Dunn is a wilderness explorer, photographer and lecturer, specialising in expeditions in the Canadian Arctic. During the 1990s he organized and led a string of successful expeditions including a north-south ski traverse of the Ellesmere Island, and a 3000 km skiing, kayaking and hiking traverse of the Baffin Island. He also completed a 2500 km journey through British Columbia, including a grueling crossing of the entire Western Cordillera. John was born in England and studied geology at university. This led to a job in mineral exploration in the Australian Outback: basically a 12 year paid camping holiday. He says he comes by his wilderness wanderlust honestly: his parents sailed around the world at the age of 65+. John brings his expedition images and experiences to a wide audience through his multi-media lectures. His Baffin images and article were featured in National Geographic magazine and his images are marketed through National Geographic’s Image Sales.
John now lives in the Swiss Alps but continues to visit the Canadian Arctic each year; most recently to Devon Island and neighboring Coburg Island. He has now hauled his sled over 7500 km but still has a long to-do list of arctic journeys lined up for his 50s and beyond. At VIMFF John Dunn returns with a richly illustrated lecture about his three ski expeditions on the eastern half of Devon Island. The area is a classic High Arctic wilderness where the open waters of northern Baffin Bay wash against a bold landscape of ice cap, glaciers and mountains. It is a place to explore the fine line between ice and ocean at the margin of the world’s largest uninhabited island. Indeed on this part of Devon you can ski beside the ocean, watch passing whales and dodge polar bears...all at the same time.
The key ingredient for explorers and audiences alike is Devon Island’s proximity to the North Water (in northern Baffin Bay). Traveling this edge of life means more varied scenery and wildlife, more challenges and greater rewards. No trudging across the icy wastes here…and as for those polar bears…no fewer than 80 of them in fact. On each of the three journeys John and his colleagues deliberately traveled late in the spring and were able to enjoy the land coming alive after the winter. They willingly embraced the challenge of coping with constantly changing conditions, which required some creative sled conversions. There was time along the way to bag a few summits, as well as make a crossing of the Devon Island Ice Cap. See http://www.arcticlight.com for more on John Dunn, his journeys and presentations. Also on the same “VIMFF BC/Canada Evening”: screening of other selected VIMFF films and a celebration of the BCMC Centennial. Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway) -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Show+Ticket Info Tickets available on-line at www.vimff.org, at MEC, or at the door.
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Robbin McKinney“Great Bike Journeys of the World”Putting aside degrees in finance and architecture, Robbin McKinney has pursued a life of active travel, initially as a guide in Europe, Africa and New Zealand, traveling extensively in search of enrichment. Robbin is owner and president of Great Explorations which he founded in 1998 and Randonnee Tours, two Vancouver based companies that specialize in cycling and walking vacations to Europe, North America and around the world. In addition, through REM Event Management Inc. Robbin organizes the Sea to Sky Trail Ride and Sunshine Coast Trail Ride, local events that raise awareness and funds for two of the premier point to point mountain biking trails in British Columbia. Robbin thinks the bicycle was man-kinds’ greatest invention and enjoys inspiring people to see the world on two wheels. At VIMFF, Robbin McKinney presents a slide show of bike travels through France, Italy, Spain, Ireland, Mexico, Morocco, Turkey, Thailand and Croatia. Robin has been guiding trips around the world since 1985 and will share stories of his secret discoveries. In addition he will discuss the pros and cons of guided vs self-guided travel and for independent travelers will offer suggestions and advice. Also on the same “VIMFF Mountain Biking Evening”: screening of other selected VIMFF mountain biking films. Where: Pacific Cinémathèque, 1131 Howe Street, Vancouver (downtown area) -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Show+Ticket Info Tues Feb 20, Tickets available at the door only. |
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Geoff Powter“Strange and Dangerous Dreams ”Geoff Powter has been the editor of the Canadian Alpine Journal for 13 years, is the past president of the Canadian Himalayan Foundation, and is a founding member of the National Mountain Centre. He has lived in Canmore, Alberta for 20 years, where he has many first ascents to his credit, and is a veteran of 13 Himalayan expeditions. He is the also the author, most recently of Strange and Dangerous Dreams: The Fine Line Between Madness and Adventure. His outdoor writing earned him a National Magazine Award in 2003. Geoff’s VIMFF presentation “Strange and Dangerous Dreams” is a combination of readings from the book and some discussion about the appeal of adventure as a "healing power." Where: North Vancouver District Public Library – Capilano Branch (Edgemont Village), 3045 Highland Blvd, North Vancouver -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Show+Ticket Info Thurs Feb 22 |
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Colin Angus and Julia Wafaei“Beyond the Horizon”As a young man Colin learned that limits are merely habits of perception. At the age of 12 he dreamed of buying an ocean-going sailboat and exploring distant lands. Many were quick to point out why this couldn’t be done. Colin, the last of four children, was raised by a single mother in the depressed working town of Port Alberni. Having never stepped foot in a sailboat he seemed an unlikely candidate to carry out such an ambition. For Colin, however, success lay behind a simple set of steps; save some money, acquire the knowledge, and buy a boat. Colin teamed up with high school friend, Dan Audet, and after two seasons of hard work crewing on a fish boat and tree planting, the men pooled their savings and purchased a 27’ ocean-going sailboat. Knowledge was gleaned easily and cheaply at the local library. Eight years after the dream was first spawned, Colin and Dan sailed away from their hometown on Vancouver Island. The sailing odyssey lasted five years and the two men voyaged down the coast of North America to Mexico and then sailed to French Polynesia. At this point Dan accepted a full-time job on a luxury yacht and the friends bade goodbye. Colin continued sailing solo for the next three years visiting the Cook Islands, Tonga, Fiji, New Caledonia, Australia and New Zealand. He finally sold the boat in Papua New Guinea before returning to Canada. Colin’s youthful years on the Pacific Ocean kindled his desire to continue exploring, and taught him that careful planning and disciplined teamwork can yield incredible results. His next adventure was a complete descent of the Amazon River in a whitewater raft, a feat he achieved in a team of three. Only one other group had succeeded in this quest, although there had been many attempts, all with tragic outcomes. On this five-month journey the trio almost died of thirst in a desert searching for the Amazon’s source, were pummeled by class V+ whitewater in the Amazon’s upper gorges, and were shot at by Shining Path Guerillas in the cloud forest. Following their journey down the Amazon, the team prepared for their next expedition; the first descent of the Yenisey River through Mongolia and Siberia. The Yenisey is the world’s fifth longest river, and had never previously been navigated from source to sea. The men had a five-month ice-free window to complete this journey which took them through some of the most remote regions on the planet, finishing at the Arctic Ocean. Colin’s most recent expedition, the first human-powered circumnavigation of the world, is his most ambitious undertaking yet. He achieved this goal with his fiancée, Julie Wafaei, which involved rowing unsupported across two oceans and trekking, canoeing, skiing and cycling through 17 countries and three continents. His book detailing this two-year quest, Beyond the Horizon, will be released in March, 2007. Colin is a best selling author who has penned three books for Random House and written for many publications including the Globe and Mail, Reader’s Digest, and Cruising World. He has co-produced two documentaries for National Geographic that have collectively won eight awards at international festivals including the Dijon and Telluride Festivals of Adventure Films. Colin and Julie are currently producing a television series and preparing for their next adventure. Julie is the first and only woman to row across the Atlantic Ocean from mainland to mainland. During the worst hurricane season in history, she spent 5 months rowing unsupported across 10,000 km of unforgiving seas, reaching shore in 2006 and completing her dream. Throughout this incredible challenge, she and her fiancé, rowed through 4 cyclones, encountered great white sharks, fished for survival, and swam with animals that accompanied them across the ocean. Julie is a molecular biologist, adventurer, writer, and filmmaker. She has two undergraduate degrees with honours from McMaster University (Biology and Psychology) and a graduate degree in Molecular Biology from the University of Victoria. She spent over a decade studying and developing treatments for heart disease, cancer and genetic ailments, before focusing completely on examining the natural world through exploration. She has explored over 30 countries, cycled 15,000 km through more than half of those, and trekked in the Himalayan Mountains. Julie has written for several publications including Venus and The Ring. Her photography has appeared in Outside Magazine, Explore Magazine, The Globe and Mail and BC Business, among others. She is currently writing a book, Rowboat in a Hurricane, detailing her latest adventure. Julie’s and Colin’s multimedia presentaion and film screening of Beyond the Horizon will document their epic 2-year circumnavigation of the Earth using only human power, one of the greatest adventures in the human history. Also on the same “VIMFF World Adventures Evening”: screening of other selected VIMFF adventure and mountain films. Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway) -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Show+Ticket Info Tickets available on-line at www.vimff.org, at MEC, or at the door. |
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Josune Bereziartu“Erori eta Berriz asi” (Falling and Trying Again)Josune Bereziartu is the unrivaled “first lady” of sport climbing – first woman to redpoint 5.14b (Honky Tonky, 1998); first to redpoint 5.14c (Honky Mix, 2000); first to redpoint 5.14c/d (Bain de Sang, 2002); first to redpoint 5.14d (Bimbaluna, 2005); and on May 2005 when she clipped the chains of El Percal on her third try, she tagged another female first: redpointing 5.14b in a day. This year, she managed to onsight 5.14a/b (Hidrofobia) as the first woman.
Josune does not limit herself to short sporty routes on crags and excels also on bigger rock walls. She recently onsighted Divina Comedia in the Pyrenees (5.13a), a 300 m endurance problem. And she also climbs big alpine routes on rock, snow and mix. Says Josune: “My natural style is a homogenous, overhanging long wall, in which the climbing style is long resistance over small and positive edges. But during my nearly 17 years of climbing and training, my goal has been always, and still is, to be regular in all styles of climbing, pushing my weaknesses. Now my residual climbing level in any style is very high, and so because of that I can climb so fast at the highest level.” [JB] Josune comes from San Sebastian in the Basque Country in Spain, a mystical land of wild countryside and fierce people speaking in a tongue unrelated to any other language. She is obsessively dedicated to climbing, very meticulous in her preparation and actual climbing: she says her good season lasts for 4-6 weeks, and then she goes back home for another 4-month long cycle of training. In spite of her scientific approach she is also friendly, passionate and loving, a great person to be around. She is a climber who wants to have fun when she climbs and she enjoys everything that revolves around the mountains - climbing, mountaineering, hiking and how it is all connected to nature. Bereziartu’s VIMFF North American premiere presentation “Erori eta Berriz asi” (Falling and Trying Again) will consist of two parts. In the first part Josune will touch upon her hardest ascents on crags, big rock wall and alpine faces, her training and her motivation. In the second part, consisting mainly of images, she is in her own words trying to say “that the most important thing is to try something and go on and go on...may be in one of those tries you will get the top...perhaps but the most important thing is to be brave to try to get what you are dreaming...In between there are dozens of falls, bad days, desilusionated days. From all over those you need to be strong and keep on going further always.” [JB] Also on the same VIMFF Finale, presented by Arc’teryx: other VIMFF climbing films screenings; the VIMFF Film Awards Ceremony; and the VIMFF after-party. Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway) -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Show+Ticket Info Tickets available on-line at www.vimff.org, at MEC, or at the door. |
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Sonnie Trotter“Cobra Crack ” Climbing the world's hardest traditional route and more...Canadian Sonnie Trotter started climbing in 1997, when he was 16. In that short time he’s racked up an impressive list of climbing accomplishments including being the first Canadian to climb 5.14c and the third person in North America to establish 5.14d. In 2004 Sonnie completed the first redpoint of the East Face of Monkey Face (5.13d R) at Smith Rock. He’s also been working on climbs on the massive 1,200-foot block of granite at Cap Trinité in Quebec. In the summer of 2005, Sonnie explored deep-water soloing in Malta. He and his friends climbed dozens of first ascents – all ground up, all natural, and all hanging over the Mediterranean Ocean. He hopes to work more with this style of climbing during an upcoming trip to Thailand. Sonnie loves challenging boulder problems and has climbed The Proposal and The Phoenix, both V12. When Sonnie was 18, he made a trip to Rifle, Colorado where he tested himself physically and psychologically. During this time it was becoming clear that climbing was taking on a more important role in his life. He decided that he was going to pursue climbing instead of going back to school. Sonnie says, "Rifle opened my eyes up to everything. The people, the passion, and the places we travel. Rifle was like opening the door to the candy store, as soon as I tasted that life I knew it was what I wanted to do forever. Climb rocks and travel the world." Sonnie is currently focused on climbing, with traditional gear, routes that are in jeopardy of being bolted to demonstrate that they can be done with a cleaner style of climbing.
In June of 2006, Sonnie climbed the first free ascent of Cobra Crack (5.14) in Squamish, British Columbia. Sonnie worked the overhanging thin-finger crack 30–40 times over the course of a few years, often rope-soloing the route to dial the moves before completing it all-free. Sonnie said, "It's very rare to find a climb that is both overhanging and so aesthetic. The fingers fit inside, but barely – if the crack was any more shallow, it would be just another impossible wall; if the crack was much steeper, it may be impossible – so I consider that route a gift for climbers. I've spent the better half of 10 years looking for a climb like that. It's perfect." Also on the same VIMFF Finale, presented by Arc’teryx: other VIMFF climbing films screenings; the VIMFF Film Awards Ceremony; and the VIMFF after-party. Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway) -------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Show+Ticket Info Tickets available on-line at www.vimff.org, at MEC, or at the door. |
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