2005 guest speakers

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Peter Croft

“Falling Down and Getting Up”

A year of climbing in the Sierra Nevada in California; from the highest peaks to the depths of injury and back up again.

Start any conversation about the greatest Squamish climbers and no doubt one of the first names to come out of your mouth would be Peter Croft. Ever since Peter arrived in Squamish around the summer of 1976 he has satiated his appetite for adventure by climbing the boldest lines in the most daring style of any climber of his era.

Hard free solos, 5.13 on-sights, big wall speed records, and extended mountain range traverses: Peter Croft has done it all, and in the process he's established himself as a visionary in the climbing community. Croft began his career in Squamish, British Colombia, and quickly made a name for him by free-climbing old aid lines that had previously been thought impossible. His efforts yielded such classics as the Zombie Roof (5.12c). He later went a step further by linking three Grade V's on the Grand Wall in 9 hours. In 1982 he set a new benchmark when he freed University wall. Also at Squamish, Croft flashed not one but two 5.13 first ascents - one that went unrepeated for 11 years.

In the Bugaboos, Croft had a soloing binge, which linked more routes than most people complete in a week. Starting from the Kain Hut, he on-sight free-soloed the Beckey-Chouinard route on South Howser Spire, the McCarthy route on Snowpatch Spire, the Northeast ridge of Bugaboo Spire, and the McTech Arete (5.11c) on Crescent Spire - all in 14 hours.

Inevitably, Croft ended up in Yosemite Valley, where he carved a place for himself in history by making the first free-solo of the sustained and committing Astroman (V5.11c). Previously, he made the first one day link-up of the Nose and the Regular Route on Half Dome with Valley legend John Bachar. This then led to his present neurosis: big traverses and link-ups in the High Sierra. He sometimes writes about his adventures in various climbing magazines and, in between climbs, logs serious couch-time watching TV with his wife, Karine, and his dog Pee Wee.

This year, i t's been the "Year of the Hulk" in for Peter in California 's High Sierra. Only a few months after he and Dave Nettle established "Air Stream" - the High Sierra's first 5.13 - the pair then completed another test piece on the Incredible Hulk, the "Venturi Effect". This new route climbs just right of the classic 5.11b “Positive Vibrations” for 10 independent pitches rated up to 5.12d on almost 1500 feet of alpine granite.

Throughout his climbing career Peter has remained true to his passion of climbing, never one to search out the limelight. Peter is a modest and humble man who has never let the world of sponsorship or notoriety entice him away from the mountains he loves. He comes to the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival to share his love for the mountains in pictures and words. His VIMFF slide presentation “Falling Down and Getting Up” will feature his early years in Squamish, his birthplace as a climber, and it will delve into his one year of intense climbing in the Sierra Nevada in California: From the highest peaks to the depths of injury and back up again.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway )
When: Saturday February 26, 7:00 (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 PM ).
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Show+Ticket Info
Centennial Theatre
Sat Feb 26, 7pm
Tickets:
(604) 984-4484

Dan Culver (in memoriam)

When Dan decided to challenge K2, he dedicated the climb to B.C.'s Tatshenshini Valley, which at the time was threatened by an open pit copper mine. As journalist Mark Hume states, "it is a true measure of the man that he sought, in what should have been his crowning moment of glory, to defer the spotlight to environmental causes that he felt were bigger than him."

On July 7th, 1993, shortly after becoming, with partner Jim Haberl, the first Canadian to summit K2, Dan "fell from a place higher than most of us will ever know " (Hume). He was one of only a handful of climbers who have scaled both of the word's highest mountains. Of the two, K2 was by far the most dangerous, fully one in three climbers who attempted the summit of that cruel mountain didn't live to celebrate their feat. On July 7th Dan became one more visionary whose desire for the ultimate challenge cost him everything.

In recognition of their achievement and the honour they brought to Canada, he and Jim Haberl were presented with the Governor General's Meritorious Service medal.

In his too-short lifetime, Dan more than fulfilled his early dream of being an adventurer, but despite his many accomplishments, he was a humble man who never sought personal glory or recognition. Dan's vitality and energy attracted people and events to him in an extraordinary way, and he had the enviable gift of making every person he met feel special. Even the many members of his family regarded him more as best friend than son, sibling or cousin. One couldn't avoid being infected by his passionate love of life, his hunger for new experiences, and his avid curiosity about the world and its precious creatures. In everything he did, Dan's enthusiasm, dedication and drive stood out. That's what made him the man he was; widely loved and sorely missed.

Dan will be remembered at VIMFF as part of Sue Oakey’s presentation “ K2: Dreams and Reality” (also featuring Dan’s climbing partner and Sue’s husband Jim Haberl) on Sunday February 27 at 7pm. It will retell the story of the 1993 K2 ascent that had brought both climbers to the top.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway)
When: Sunday February 27, 7:00 pm (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 pm)
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Show+Ticket Info
Centennial Theatre
Sun Feb 27, 7pm
Tickets: (604) 984-4484

Jim Haberl in memoriam

” K2: Dreams and Reality”

Jim was a professional mountain guide, freelance photojournalist, national best-selling author, motivational speaker and a loving husband, son, brother and friend.

Jim began climbing when he was 16 and traveled to every continent, completing 7 first ascents in North America (Mt. MacArthur SW Ridge, Mt. Huntington West Face, Devil's Thumb West Buttress, Mt Fairweather SE Ridge, Mt. Bertha NW Ridge, Mt. Sabine E face, Tellot Peak N Face) and classic routes from Alaska to Africa.

In 1993, Jim and Dan Culver made the first Canadian ascent of the world's second highest peak, K2, via the Abruzzi Spur. Tragically, Dan was killed on the descent. Both climbers were awarded Canada 's Meritorious Service Medal from the Governor General for their outstanding achievement. Grieving the loss of his friend, Jim struggled at home. After an emotional slideshow to a packed house, the seed was planted that Jim should write a book about this extraordinary experience. He went on to form Tantalus Publishing and self published his first book: K2 Dreams and Reality. It was a national best-seller. Three years later he wrote another best-seller Risking Adventure which talks about following the passion in your heart. To promote the books, Jim did more than 100 slideshows across Canada and became a successful motivational speaker, inspiring adults and teenagers alike. The highlight of his speaking career was when he shared the stage with Rick Hansen and Ken Dryden. Jim's photography and writing have appeared in books, magazines and newspapers across North America.

Jim passed his final exam to become an internationally certified full mountain guide (IFMGA, UIAGM) in 1992. He became an examiner for the Association of Canadian Mountain Guides (ACMG) in 1994 and an instructor for the Canadian Avalanche Association in 1995. By 1996, he was the Director of the West Coast Section of the ACMG and worked enthusiastically to support guides through such fundraisers as the Mountaineers' Soiree. His goal was to create a scholarship fund in perpetuity. He was a special mentor to many people. Through his company, North Star Adventures, Jim guided people throughout Western Canada and abroad, quietly sharing his joy of the mountains. He was a guide's guide with the "spouse's seal of approval". With his wife Sue in 1998, he led 8 people from the Alzheimer's Society to the top of Africa 's highest peak, Kilimanjaro. This climb has since become an annual fundraiser and has raised an incredible amount of money.

Jim was a highly accomplished man and successful by our society's standards. Yet the Jim who touched so many people's hearts was loved and admired not so much for what he did but more for how he did it. He was sweet, compassionate, strong, competent, respectful, accepting, honest, courageous, gracious and he loved unconditionally. At his memorial service, the outpouring of love was overwhelming. His legacy is how he made people feel and how so many people carry him in their hearts. Jim passed away on April 29, 1999 while climbing on an unnamed 3,230m peak known as Ultima Thule in the Wrangell-St Elias National Park in Alaska.

Jim's in memoriam VIMFF slideshow “ K2 : Dreams and Reality” will be presented by his wife Sue Oakey on Sunday February 27 at 7pm. It will retell the story of the 1993 K2 ascent that had brought him and Dan Culver to the top.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway )
When: Sunday February 27, 7:00 pm (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 pm )
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Katy Holm

“Climbing in SE Greenland”

Katy Holm, one of Vancouver 's most enthusiastic outdoor adventurers, has a lot of stories to tell. Kayaking the entire West Coast of Vancouver Island and a Grey Whale eyeing her from 1m below her kayak, the adrenalin rush of launching off waterfalls during first descents of class 4+ creeks on Vancouver Island, the feeling of freedom and serenity when standing on top of unclimbed peaks in the Sawback Range, a remote area of the Coast Range where the only tracks and trails are from animals…

Katy spent a month this last summer in the Waddington area racking up classics on Serra I, II, & III, Stiletto, the Blade, and Combatant. In 2003 she traversed the Waddington massif climbing both summits of Waddington. Her favorite rock climbs include the Rostrom, Yosemite, the complete Grand Wall (Squamish), Levitation 29 (Red Rocks), The Nose of El Capitan, and the Regular NW face of Half Dome. She has also climbed ice to grade 5 and won first place in the women's division of the 2001 Canmore International Ice Speed Competition.

Currently she is preparing for two climbing trips, Patagonia in January and Central China this summer. Katy, Katherine Fraser, and Aidan Oloman recently won the John Lauchlan award for their expedition to China. “What I love about these trips is the adventure of exploration, challenging myself mentally and physically, working with a team, and learning about the people and environment of new places.”

Katy is a professional teacher, sea kayak guide and biologist, and coordinates the Wilderness Education Program here in Vancouver. Katy's enthusiasm for the outdoors and deep appreciation for the natural environment is infectious and highly entertaining. Join Katy in her VIMFF presentation, Climbing in SE Greenland. “This trip was an incredible adventure, even our approach! We sailed from Iceland to Greenland getting repeatedly stuck in the icepack in the process, we climbed three first ascents of beautiful 5.9-5.11C crack routes up 400-900m rock faces, and we spent a week in a small Inuit village learning about the culture and eating copious quantities of delicious Greenlandic-Danish pastries!” Part of the ticket proceeds will go towards the Wilderness Education Program.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway )
When: Saturday February 26, 3:00 pm
Tickets: $ 9. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Show+Ticket Info
Centennial Theatre
Sat Feb 27, 7pm
Tickets: (604) 984-4484

Jennifer Jordan

“Women of K2 ”

Jennifer Jordan is an author, journalist, radio and television news anchor, and voice-over/narration talent. She created, wrote, and produced “Women of K2” for National Geographic Channel, and recently completed the book “Savage Summit: The True Stories of the First Five Women Who Climbed K2, the World's Most Feared Mountain ” (published by William Morrow in January 2005). Jennifer is also the author of several children's books which follow the antics of Harry, the Happy Dog.

Jordan spent the better part of the 1990's at WGBH FM in Boston where she anchored National Public Radio's All Things Considered. She also worked with the acclaimed WGBH Channel 2, public television's most prolific production house, as an on air talent, news segment producer, researcher and writer. Before Jordan joined WGBH she created, produced, hosted and marketed her own talk show that she syndicated nationally via NPR's satellite network. In addition to her broadcast experience, Jordan wrote numerous cover stories for various Boston periodicals on topics ranging from famed mountaineer and filmmaker David Breashears to movie star brothers Donnie and Mark Wahlberg.

In the late 80's Jennifer Jordan directed Harvard University 's premiere speakers' arena, The Forum at the John F. Kennedy School of Government. Along with hosting presidents and prime ministers, she helped produce “Candidates '88,” a 13-week television series aired live on PBS stations nationwide. After leaving the Kennedy School, she consulted for Harvard's Radcliffe College, organizing women's conferences throughout the country.

Jennifer co-owns and operates Skyline Ventures Productions with her partner, cinematographer/mountaineer Jeff Rhoads in Salt Lake City where she spends as much of her free time as possible exploring the backcountry of the Wasatch Mountains, as well as competing in triathlons and ultra-distance trail runs.

Jennifer Jordan bring her VIMFF live presentation and film “Women of K2” to the Festival Finale evening on Sunday, February 27 at 7pm. She offers her perspective of a researcher, writer and film maker in life stories of the five prominent female climbers who climbed K2. She is also introducing her recently published book, “Savage Summit: The True Stories of the First Five Women Who Climbed K2, the World's Most Feared Mountain”.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway )
When: Sunday February 27, 7:00 (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 pm )
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Show+Ticket Info
Centennial Theatre
Sun Feb 27, 7pm
Tickets
(604) 984-4484

Joe "JoJo" Josephsen

“Winter Dance”

A 35-year visual history of ice climbing in the world's iciest arenas by one of Canada 's premier climbers.

Joe Josephson hails from Big Timber, Montana but is probably best known for his time in the Canadian Rockies where he established many new routes and authored the 3rd and 4th editions of the local ice climbing guidebook "Waterfall Ice." Joe's talent extends well beyond the roadside crags, as he has ventured deep into the alpine environment where he's climbed plenty of big committing routes on extremely remote peaks.

Being a student at the University of Calgary in the late 1980's offered the perfect flexibility to head to the Icefields Parkway whenever the conditions beckoned. Being in the right place at the right time over the next several years, Joe managed over three dozen major first ascents highlighted with the first solo (same day) of “The Sorcerer” (WI 5) and “Hydrophobia” (WI 6), “Acid Howl” (WI 6+) with Scott Backes, “Fearful Symmetry” (WI 6) and “Sea of Vapors” (WI 7) with Bruce Hendricks, “Arctic Dream” (WI 6) with Joe McKay, “The Day After Le Vacances De Mounsier Hulot” (5.9, A2, WI 6) with Francois Damilano, “The Replicant” (WI 6+) with Tim Pochay and Keith Haberl, and the 4th ascent of “Riptide” (WI 7) with Barry Blanchard.

In the meantime he'd graduated college with a Bachelors Degree in Kinesiology and began work as the production manager for the clothing and tent company Integral Designs, founded in the mid-1980 by the late David Cheesmond.

All of this was training, however, to get back to the big mountains in 1989, when Joe spent 43 days on Mount Logan as a field assistant for a glaciology expedition. Then after nearly 10 years of obsession and several efforts, he managed in 1998 to climb a new route with Steve House on the rarely climbed King Peak, the 9th highest in North America. This 2,300m high route named “Call of the Wild” (WI 6+) took a non-stop epic (35 hours round-trip) to one of the largest and most remote faces in North America.

Also in 1998 Jack Tackle and Joe visited Patagonia. They stood atop Cerro Fitzroy on New Year's Day after climbing the “Super Canaleta” over three days. In the spring they made a quick ascent of the East Ridge of Mount Logan. After making the first of several annual winter attempts on a new route on the Emperor Face with Barry Blanchard and Steve House, Joe finally stood on top of Mount Robson in 1998 with Larry Stanier after blitzing the 3,000-meter high Wishbone Arête in less than 48 hours.

After a brief stint as the business manager for Alpinist Magazine Joe started his own publishing company, First Ascent Press. The company's first book was published in October 2004, titled "Winter Dance - Select Ice Climbs in Southern Montana and Northern Wyoming ". Many feel that this is one of the most beautiful guidebooks ever published, rich with regional history and featuring 380 color photographs. Joe has, once again, raised the bar for guidebook publication. "Winter Dance" was a finalist at the Banff International Mountain Book Festival.

JoJo's VIMFF show "Winter Dance - a 35 Year History of Ice Climbing” brings images and stories of first ascents from his new highly acclaimed guide “ WINTER DANCE”. Hear about the development of ice climbing from around North America, with special emphasis on the Montana Dirty Sox Club era from the early 1970s and their ground breaking explorations through the 1990s, as well as some of the continent's most challenging traditional mixed climbs by Alex Lowe, Stan Price and others.

Where: Macmillan Space Centre (Planetarium), 1100 Chestnut Street, Vancouver
When: Tuesday February 22, 7:00 (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 PM ).
Tickets: $ 12 at the door.

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Show+Ticket Info
Planetarium
Tues Feb 22 7pm
Tickets: at the door

Melting Mountains

A climate change awareness program

Melting Mountains is a unique awareness partnership between the Alpine Club of Canada, the David Suzuki Foundation, the Government of Canada and Mountain Equipment Co-op. It is reaching out to the mountain community, which often experiences the impacts of climate change first-hand.

“Mountain enthusiasts are often among the first to see the effects of climate change,” says Ian Bruce, director of the Melting Mountains Program. “It's only natural that this community take a leadership role in helping to reduce the heat-trapping emissions that cause the problem in the first place. Global warming is no longer just a theory, it's happening right now and it's having an effect on some of our most valued hiking, climbing, and skiing areas.”

As part of the Melting Mountains program, alpine enthusiasts are encouraged to take the “Peak Challenge,” which shows how people can reduce their personal greenhouse gas emissions by 20 per cent.

“Melting Mountains and the Peak Challenge are about solutions,” says Bruce. “Individuals who choose to carpool to the mountains, or switch to a fuel-efficient vehicle, can have a real impact. Businesses and the resort community can also take leadership by switching to clean energy sources and by being more efficient.”

After Greenland, Canada boasts more glacial cover than any other country in the world. But during the last century, glaciers in the southern Canadian Rockies have lost at least 25 per cent of their area and some glaciers have lost up to 70 per cent of their volume. In nearby Glacier National Park, scientists believe more than 50 per cent of the glacier ice has melted away in the last century – enough melted ice to fill a water tower at least five kilometers tall by five kilometers wide.

The snowpack in Western Canada is legendary throughout North America and the world. But since 1955, winters in the region have been getting shorter by a half-day per year.

Internationally-renowned mountain climber Reinhold Messner, the first person to summit Mt. Everest solo without bottled oxygen, has recently signed on as a spokesperson for the Melting Mountains program. Like other mountain enthusiasts, he is concerned about the worsening impacts of climate change, and has seen the effects first-hand throughout his career.

“It's clear we've got to take action to address climate change,” says Bruce. “As mountain enthusiast, we've got too much to lose.”

Find more about the Melting Mountains Program on www.MeltingMountains.org.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway )
When: Wednesday February 23, 7:00 (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 pm )
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Show+Ticket Info
Centennial Theatre
Wed Feb 23, 7pm
Tickets: (604) 984-4484

Anna Pietraszek

Anna Pietraszek is a mountain film maker of many talents. Coming from Poland, one of the cradles of mountain climbing and filmmaking, she has developed her own distinctive style of cinematography. With an M.A. degree in journalism, she has worked as a film director, author of film scripts, film commentaries and a camerawoman since 1977. She produced expedition diaries from the Polish expeditions to the high ranges, film portraits of the leading figures of the Polish climbing and mountaineering scene (including the late Wanda Rutkiewicz and Dobroslawa “Mrowka” Miodowicz-Wolf), and documentaries from the war zones of the East.

Anna Pietraszek knows how to shoot films and guns, and with her diploma in Interpersonal Communication at the Polish Neurolinguistic Institute she can probably do many more esoteric things… like read into your soul with her camera obscura or assess your true intentions by examining inflexions in your accent.

Anna completed her post-graduate studies at the Polish Academy of National Defence. It doesn’t come as much of a surprise that she was the only woman to finish this program. She took a National Security Course for journalists at Pentagon and a special training for journalists at the NATO headquarters in Copenhagen, Denmark. All these courses enabled her to make documentaries in war zones, in countries devastated by conflicts, as well as in other life threatening situations. To Anna shooting a film during a Polish winter expedition to the Himalayas might actually feel more like a healing process in comparison to filming in Afghanistan.

Anna produced many photographic documentaries for various illustrated magazines. She authored scripts and commentaries, and filmed over fifty 16 mm documentaries in Afghanistan, Indies, Nepal, Pakistan, Tibet, and Siberia. She edited photo magazines, initiated and organized TV and radio reviews and festivals, worked for the Polish TV as a journalist and a documentary film director. Anna organized a number of aid campaigns for people in the Asian countries. Her films were awarded at different festivals. Her list of awards, medals and credits is endless. Her energy resources are limitless, her enthusiasm and passion bottomless. You can call her at 2:30 am after an overnight party and she would sound like in the middle of her brightest day. Rumour has it that the toughest Polish mountain climbers and army officials found it hard to keep up with Anna when it came to red wine: a few bottles into the game, she was always fresher than ever, more present than the others. But then, who knows… perhaps it was “herbata zurawinowa”, her favourite cranberry tea.

It is a unique pleasure to offer Anna Pietraszek’s live presentation and her films as part of the 8th VIMFF’s “Polish Evening”. She will speak about the challenges of making movies in the mountains, during the communist regime in Poland, and in politically instable countries. She will bring a selection of her best films, past and present, including the ones from the Polish expeditions to the high ranges and a few portraits of her fellow Polish mountaineers. As part of the VIMFF “K2 Evening”, Anna will shortly touch upon the personality of the late Wanda Rutkiewicz, her good friend and one of the few female mountaineers to summit K2. Anna Pietraszek will also act as a VIMFF 2005 Jury Member.

Where: MacMillan Space Centre (Planetarium), 1100 Chestnut Street, Vancouver
When: Sunday February 20, 7:00 (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 PM).
Tickets: $ 12 at the door.

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Show+Ticket Info
Planetarium
Sun Feb 20, 7pm
Tickets:
at the door

Hans "NoWay" Rey

“ No Way ! The Hans Rey Story”

Hans Rey, multiple Trials National and World Champion, is one of the pioneers of Trials and Extreme Mountain Biking. Through his spectacular mountain bike trials shows and adventures, Hans has made himself a name far beyond the mountain bike scene. His skills and image are constantly opening the doors to media coverage all over the world; "No Way" Rey has been demonstrating his talents in over 40 countries.

Hans earned recognition with his jump over a car on the 405 Freeway in Los Angeles, with his volcano dance in Hawaii, his under water bungee jump, or his Machu Picchu Adventure. Besides his own successful video series he was also chosen as stunt coordinator and stuntman in Willy Bogners motion pictures "Fire, Ice, and Dynamite" and "White Magic"; as well as in the TV Show "Pacific Blue", where he occasionally has a guest appearance as himself. He's also been featured and hosted numerous TV shows and programs. At the 1996 Olympic Games Hans was part of an Extreme Sports Act and performed in front of 3.5 billion viewers in the Olympic Closing Ceremonies.

The Hans Rey Adventure Team was inspired by Hans' desire to utilize his unique mountain biking talents and go outside the competitive arena and explore the world, capturing all the cultural and spiritual qualities of his destinations for the benefit of millions of TV, video, and publication viewers. Riding waterfalls in Jamaica, looking for pyramids and a dwarf tribe in China, amongst wild animals in Africa, in the footsteps of the Inca in Bolivia, searching for headhunters in Borneo, are just a few of Hans' journeys with his adventure team. These adventures around the world are many times highlighted with live performances in front of thousands of fans at sporting events, fairs, conventions, and other special events.

More on Hans Rey at www.hansrey.com

Meet Hans Rey at the VIMFF Mountain Biking Evening on Thursday, February 24, at 7pm. Hans will be introducing his latest film “No Way! The Hans Rey Story”, doing a mini stage show on his bike, and signing posters.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway )
When: Thursday February 24, 7:00 (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 PM ).
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Dianne Roberts

During the 1978 American Expedition to K2 Dianne Roberts climbed up to the Savioa Pass at camp 2, she peered over the pass down into China and in doing so set an altitude record for a North American woman on the mountain, 20,400 feet. It was her drive, tenacity and determination as well as her climbing abilities that got her to that height on the second highest mountain in the world.

Originally from Calgary, Dianne found her way to Mt Rainier where she did numerous ascents on the mountain. She married Jim Whittaker and joined him on his expeditions to K2 in 1975 and 1978, originally intending to be the expedition photographer, soon she found herself in the role of climber with ambitions high on the mountain.

Following the K2 climbs she continued to assist with further expeditions and became the administrative director of the 1990 Mount Everest Earth Day International Peace Climb. With Jim, they surmounted bureaucratic hurdles to place a combined U.S-Chinese-Russian team at the summit of Everest as part of the Peace Climb.

Today Dianne is an avid sailor and rower who continues to pursue a passion for photography. She comes to the Vancouver Mountain Film Festival to share a women’s perspective of mountaineering with a large team on the deadliest mountain on Earth, K2.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway)
When: Sunday February 27, 7:00 (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 pm)
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Sonnie Trotter

Breaking news, Sonnie Trotter has just completed another heinous first ascent of a ridiculously hard route. Sounds familiar? Well, pick up any climbing magazine and no doubt in the first few pages you’ll find a new route that Sonnie has just put up, or some sick route that he’s just repeated.

A professional climber for the past six years, Sonnie has a passion for hard rock and the outdoor life. Today he is recognized as one of Canada 's most prolific rock climbers. He is equally at home on traditional and sport routes. He was the first Canadian to win a US national climbing title, the first Canadian to Climb 5.14c and the third person in North America to establish 5.13d. Sonnie is also a hardcore boulderer, having climbed both The Proposal and The Phoenix both rated V12. In addition to climbing Sonnie thrives of travel and meeting new people in obscure places.

Sonnie was born in Newmarket, Ontario, he started climbing and traveling at the age of 16. At the age of 18 he made a trip to Rifle, Colorado where he tested himself physically and psychologically, but it was also becoming clear that climbing was taking on a more important role in his life. He decided that he was going to pursue climbing instead of going back to school.

Today, living out of his van, Sonnie has traveled throughout the continent testing himself on the stiffest routes around. He has also ventured to some of the more remote areas and has recently returned from Cap Trinite, a giant hunk of granite in Quebec about 200 miles from the nearest urban center. Again, he’s back in the climbing pages, the latest Rock & Ice issue details his adventures there with Nick Sagar as they tried to crack part of the 1200-foot block.

Sonnie Trotter is coming to the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival to share some his latest adventures with the climbing enthusiasts out here on the West Coast. His show promises to be wild and adventurous, gripping and intense. His van will probably be parked nearby.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway)
When: Saturday February 26, 7:00 (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 pm)
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Jim Whittaker

There have been many ‘firsts' in Jim Whittaker's life. He was the first North American to summit Mount Everest (1963). As the first manager and employee, and ultimately the CEO, of Recreational Equipment, Inc. (REI), he led the company through years of record-setting growth. In 1965 he guided Bobby Kennedy up the newly-named Mount Kennedy, helping him to become the first person to summit the peak. In 1990, he led the historic International Peace Climb, which put climbers from the U.S., Russia, and China on the summit of Everest in the name of world peace.

In 1963, Swiss mountaineer Norman Dyhrenfurth invited the Whittaker brothers to join him on an Everest expedition. Lou was unable to make the trip, but Jim leapt at the chance. In his 1999 autobiography A Life on the Edg e he describes how it felt to stand atop Everest: "I did not feel expansive or sublime. I felt only, as I said later, ‘like a frail human being'. People—mostly non-climbers—talk about conquering mountains. In my mind, nothing could be farther from the truth. The mountain is so huge and powerful, and the climber so puny, exhausted, and powerless. The mountain is forever. Gombu and I, meanwhile, were dying every second we lingered."

Summitting Everest changed Jim Whittaker's life. An invitation to the White House led to a friendship with the Kennedy family and in particular with Bobby Kennedy, President Kennedy's younger brother and Attorney-General. Following the president's assassination, Whittaker guided Bobby Kennedy to the top of the Yukon mountain named in the president's memory.

Whittaker went on to lead expeditions to K2, organizing the first American team to summit the mountain in 1978. In 1990 he surmounted physical and bureaucratic hurdles to place a combined U.S-Chinese-Russian team at the summit of Everest as part of the 1990 Mount Everest Earth Day International Peace Climb.

Today Jim Whittaker spends his time lecturing, writing and, when time allows, sailing with his wife Dianne Roberts, and their two teenage sons. Life, Whittaker says, is still full of adventure: "I think a life well lived is also inseparable from being able and willing to learn continuously. A climber who doesn't learn, almost with every foothold and handhold, is unlikely to be around long enough to have a life well lived. Learning is what happens when you risk a journey beyond what you know and are comfortable with, to something you don't know and aren't comfortable with. A lot of people my age act like they've seen it all and have nothing much else to learn. But I'm still a learner."

Jim Whittaker's VIMFF presentation will be featured within the Festival Finale evening, dedicated to climbing K2 (Centennial Theatre on Saturday, February 15 at 7 pm ). Jim will be speaking from a perspective of organizing the first American expeditions that eventually led to the first American climb to the summit in 1978.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway )
When: Sunday February 27, 7:00 (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 pm ).
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Jim Wickwire

“ K2 : Addicted to Danger”

Jim Wickwire is a veteran of over twenty expeditions to Alaska, South America, the Karakoram and the Himalaya (1972-2001). He is best known for his 1978 ascent of K2 (8,591 m), the world's second highest mountain.

Jim has been climbing since early 1960s. He gained extensive experience in Washington and Oregon Cascades, Alaska, in the Canadian Rockies, Swiss Alps, Andes, Karakoram and Himalaya. He climbed 27 different routes on Mt. Rainier, including four routes on Willis Wall (twice in winter). He also climbed Mt. McKinley, West Rib/South Face (new route alpine-style, 1972); Mts. Fairweather and Quincy Adams (new routes and complete alpine-style traverse, 1973); K2 (participated in 1975 unsuccessful attempt on still unclimbed Northwest Ridge; reached summit of K2 via Northeast Ridge and upper Abruzzi Route, 1978). On Mt. Everest Jim got close to the summit during his attempt of the North Face via Great Couloir in 1982, and then once again on the 1984 successful expedition via North Col and North Face.

Jim was a leader of a five member team that made the second ascent of Sarmiento's West Peak in Terra del Fuego by a new route on Southwest Face (1995). He also led two Everest expeditions on the Tibetan side (2001 and 2003).

Jim currently resides in Seattle, works part-time as attorney, and spends his spare time climbing mountains. He co-authored (with Dorothy Bullitt) his memoir, Addicted to Danger (1998).

At VIMFF, Jim will MC the Festival Finale evening, dedicated to exploring K2 (Centennial Theatre, Sunday February 27, 7pm ). His presentation “K2: Addicted to Danger” will offer a brief historical overview of climbing K2 as well as his own perspective of the first successful American summit bid that put him and three other climbers on the top.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway )
When: Sunday February 27, 7:00 pm (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 pm )
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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Heinz Zak

“Extreme Climbing – a Photographic Journey”

A close-up look at the world of free-climbing from the legendary Austrian climbing photographer Heinz Zak.

Have you ever looked at one of those incredible photos taken from a thousand feet above the ground of some hard climber doing a first ascent of some new big wall route and wondered, “how did they get a photo of that?” Well if the photo was taken in Yosemite it may well have been shot by famed Austrian photographer Heinz Zak. Heinz has regularly contributed photos of climbers like Dean Potter, Tim O'Neall or Alex Huber to the pages of “Climbing” and “Rock & Ice”, as well as countless European magazines. Now he comes to the Vancouver International Mountain Film Festival to share his stories, photos and films with the audience.

Born in Tyrol, Austria in 1958, Heinz Zak has been one of his country's leading alpine climbers for more than 20 years, but it was in 1979 that he turned his attention to the Yosemite Valley. It was there that he discovered that some of the greatest climbing was happening outside of Europe, “ We still thought that we would be some of the best climbers until we reached Yosemite. Only there we realized how far behind we were in terms of techniques and difficulty." Heinz was one of the first Austrians to visit Yosemite and other American climbing areas, and it was there where he discovered the world of free-climbing. At that time in Europe most routes were still being done by aid climbing and so Heinz returned with inspiring slideshows from America and a ravenous appetite for developing new climbing areas. In Austria he transferred his skills into first ascents in alpine walls of the Wetterstein and the Karwendel, and helped develop sport climbing in the area.

On a world round trip with his wife and his son in 1984 and 1985 he and Wolfgang Güllich decided in " Camp Hog " of Mt. Arapiles in Australia to do a book on the best climbing areas of the world. The book came out in 1987 and proved very successful. It showed climbing all over the world, including articles from leading climbers such as John Gill, Ron Fawcett, Bernd Arnold, Jacky Godoffe, and many others. In 1995 Heinz published another book, "Rock Stars", showing portraits and photos of 78 leading rock legends all over the world.

When teaming up with Peter Janschek he found a great partner for big routes. In 1998 they did a free ascent of the route "Freerider" 5.13a on El Capitan. The experience they gained from that route was really helpful for their third ascent of "Royal Flush" on Fitz Roy in 1999. In autumn 1999 they became the first European party to climb both big walls “Half Dome NW-Face” and "The Nose" on El Cap in one day.

Today, Heinz Zak is best known for his incredible photographs of the world's best climbers, photos taken from right alongside the action. His latest work, “ Yosemite - Half a Century of Dynamic Rock Climbing” is essentially a history of climbing in the valley, written largely by German climbing legend Alex Huber and adorned with Heinz's incredible photography.

Heinz Zak's VIMFF show “Extreme Climbing – a Photographic Journey” is a close-up look at the world of free-climbing.

Where: Centennial Theatre, 2300 Lonsdale Avenue, North Vancouver (exit 18 off Trans Canada Highway )
When: Friday February 25, 7:00 (doors open and reception starts at 6:00 pm )
Tickets: $ 15 in advance, $ 17 at the door. Advance tickets available at MEC, selected outdoor stores and climbing gyms, and at the Centennial Theatre Box Office, (604) 984-4484.

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